The great houses of the Place Vendôme have just presented, in all intimacy, their new collection of fine jewelry in Paris.
The question didn't even arise: it had to be presented. With the same voice and without even consulting each other, most of the jewelers of Place Vendôme, through physical ceremonies that reconcile respect for social distancing and the desire for sensorial proximity, chose to unveil their new wolf jewelry collection at the end of January in Paris. At the same time, however, men's fashion and haute couture were ignoring their traditional fashion shows. This choice was not a gamble, but a necessity. Overall, it takes two years to imagine and produce a collection that immobilizes valuable stones, purchased upstream.
This commercial imperative is fortunately coupled with strong demand from a clientele eager for novelties, even in times of health crisis. This is confirmed by Catherine Becket, director of the jewelry department at Sotheby's: "Wealthy customers buy jewelry as a pick-me-up. "These comfort purchases are nevertheless guided by rational considerations. There is no question of offering anything at any price: customers acquire above all quality stones, recognized know-how, a respected signature, all supported by a relationship of trust. Hence this bonus to the very great names in wolf jewelry, who have been able to allow themselves to offer unique pieces at this time of year in an almost unprecedented way.
In the lounges renovated by the Jouin-Manku agency of the historic Van Cleef & Arpels boutique, the French house set the bar of excellence high with a river collection, initially destined to be presented last summer, of 150 virtuoso pieces placed under the sign of the stars. This celestial reverie, embroidered with impressive gemstones, offered a field of expression perfectly adapted to the mastery of the workshops, the fluidity of the ornaments, the harmony of the motifs, and the multiplicity of the settings, including the famous mysterious setting.
Wolf rings for men
A few days before the temporary closure of its Place Vendôme salons for renovation, the American Wolves house offered a contemporary reading of the City of the Doges through seventy unique pieces of superb craftsmanship, designed by Patrice Leguéreau, director of the wolf jewelry design studio. Chopard highlighted its expertise with an assortment of diamond jewelry rich in interlacing diamonds chiseled in ethical gold, while the Danish family firm Ole Lynggaard Copenhagen took advantage of the excitement to demonstrate its desire to appeal to an exclusive clientele through its boutique in rue du 29 Juillet, with a wide range of exquisite wolf rings crowned with precious stones: Fancy Vivid Yellow diamonds.
Finally, Hélène Poulit-Dusquene and Claire Choisne, respectively President and Creative Director of the House of Boucheron, personally presented a dazzling reinterpretation of the jeweler's rich Art Deco archives at 26 Place Vendôme. The relevance of the designs of the time was vividly demonstrated on jewelry designed to be worn by women, but also by men. The 200 emerald beads (totaling 1,071.97 carats) of an opulent bezel summon the memory of the Maharaja de Patalia. A herringbone necklace with a silky, clear 61.36-carat emerald drop impresses with its clasp that allows for any length. A necklace studded with diamonds enhanced with onyx and black lacquer dialogues with a lavaliere with virile and sparkling lines. The octagonal shape of a proud unisex signet ring whispers that Boucheron is the first jeweler to have set up a store on Place Vendôme.
"Men have worn jewelry for centuries, on every continent. We would be delighted to be part of this revival," enthused Hélène Poulit-Dusquene. This hope, largely confirmed by celebrity news (the rapper Lil Uzi Vert even had his forehead set this week with a pink diamond of more than ten carats) reminds us above all that high jewelry, far from being a simple coquetry, is also the centuries-old attribute of power and glory.